Tacoma Cab Behind-the-Seat Storage Caddies

October 30th, 2011

In my 2010 Toyota Tacoma’s (two door, regular cab) there isn’t much storage space.  There is a narrow space behind the seat so I build some containers to be able to store stuff that wouldn’t fit in the glove box.

Space Behind Seat

I made two caddies, one to go to the right of the seat belt and one to go where the jack handle straps down.

Passenger Side Caddy

 

Driver's Side Caddy

I used some cheap 1/4″ OSB because that’s what scrap wood I had on hand but I wouldn’t make them out anything much thicker because it’s overkill and it would eat into your storage space.   Nicely enough Toyota welded some nuts behind the horizontal tube so I was able to securely fasten the caddies to the back wall.  The nuts are M6 with a 1.00 thread pitch, and I used 20mm machine bolts.

Back Wall Mounting Point

Design considerations:

  • The caddies can only be about 5″ deep or else the seat will hit them when adjusted all the way back.
  • Don’t make them too wide or else they will interfere with the seat tilt lever
  • I didn’t bother to make bottoms as the things I’m storing are large and won’t slip though.  However I did wind up having to put some smaller bungees into a small box.  If I eventually need bottoms I’ll staple on some webbing or fabric.
  • Both sides have an “ear” that sticks out to the threaded nut; this was because I was unable to go any farther to the left with the caddy.
To get an accurate measurement of the distance between the threaded holes I traced them gravestone-style onto a piece of paper and then transferred those holes onto my wood.
Here are some Google Sketchup drawings for each side:
Passenger Side
Driver’s Side

Driver's Side

Passenger Side

 

Gotta have room for that atlas!

Hanging Scale for Weighing out Grains

October 2nd, 2011

In the past I’ve used one of those 11lb Esacli scales for weighing out grain.  It works well enough but the size of your container is limited by its plate so I only ever could weigh 4 pounds at a time.  While getting a bunch of other cheap junk to play with from DealExtreme I picked up a hanging scale.  It hangs from my basement ceiling and works very nicely for weighing out grain.  Tare the bucket, dump in the required amount of one grain, tare, dump in the next, etc.

Ideally I’d have a plate scale that could handle 30+ pounds but this was a much cheaper alternative1

Butternut Squash “Pumpkin” Beer

October 2nd, 2011

Today I made my annual pumpkin beer and I took the easy way out by using some butternut squash for the vegetable portion.   They’re a lot easier to find than pie pumpkins, and are cheap.  The flavor after roasting wasn’t all that different from pumpkins of years past so I didn’t feel too bad about cheating.

I grabbed four of them at a local farmer’s market for $3.50, split & cleaned then, and roasted them @ 375 for 2:15.

Four of these guys yielded 3.5 pounds of meat.

Reworked MLT Bulkhead

May 21st, 2011

For the past 5 years or so I’ve mashed using my 10-gallon Gott cooler with one of Northern Brewer’s bulkhead kits.  I never was perfectly happy with the bulkhead as it would occasionally leak and it is insecure/wobbly by nature because it’s trying to sandwich two pieces of plastic separated by foam. And you if think about a leak on this bulkhead design your wort is going in between the cooler walls, gross.

So today I cut out the outer shell leaving just the inner liner, and I redid the bulkhead to only sandwich that inner liner.  It’s much sturdier now.  Photos and descriptions follow.

Here is how much shell I dremel’d away.  In retrospective I should have cut away some more to make getting my fingers around the locknut easier.

Shell Cutaway

I’m using a fully-close nipple instead of the almost-closed nipple that came with the original kit.  That slight reduction in length lets me clamp down on the inner shell.

Closed Nipples

Here is a chunk of the wort-soaked foam from in between the cooler walls.  Thankfully the expanding foam they use forms a good seal along the walls so my wort leaks didn’t seep very far in.

Moldy Foam

To be able to get a better clamp on the wall I’m using a big 1/2″ silicone washer.

Big Silicone Washer

And the finished product.  The ball valve had enough thread to get a good seal and a leak test passed.

Bulkhead Exterior

MoreBeer Carbonating Keg Lid

April 12th, 2011

So I was feeling a little spendy a few months back so I sprung for MoreBeer’s $70 carbonating keg lid.  I’ve used it to carb two kegs and by golly it does work.   Each batch has been ready in about 3 days total, a big improvement over the week of shaking and waiting I’d do before.  It’s nice how this piece of kit prevents me from overcarbing my beer, something I’d usually do when attempting to force-carb.

I’ve been approximately following their instructions:

  • Fill keg, and if needed put in kegerator to chill down.  Use the carbonating lid.
  • Set gas very low in the 2-4 psi range.
  • Increase by about 2 psi every couple of hours
  • When I’ve reached my target pressure (usually around 8 or 10) I’ll leave it for another day with the carb lid still on.
    • At this point the beer will be carbonated as evidenced by the taste and seeing the fine bubbles coming out of solution.  However your pours will be very slow because the small headspace and restriction the stone puts on the incoming gas to fill that void.  So because of the slow pours you likely won’t get a nice looking head, but switching the gas over to the regular gas post will increase your pour speed and then you should start getting nice pours.
    • After another day with the gas on the regular post my pours are “normal” with the head & carbonation having the fine bubble structure that I’d normally get after maybe 2-3 weeks with a normally-carbonated keg.